Wednesday, April 11, 2007

How to Survive Merlefest

Merlefest!! For music lovers of a certain type, the name raises hopes and challenges the imagination. Ask someone along the festival trail if they’ve ever been to Merlefest and more often than not you get a response that suggests wonder, a little fear, concern about the crowds, concern about the expense, eagerness to attend. More people have heard about Merlefest than have attended it. Merlefest 2007 will be our fifth consecutive Merlefest. It represents the single most expensive and engaging week in our entertainment calendar. Each year we are introduced to musicians we have never heard of or never seen and reunited with some of our favorites. Unlike smaller, more intimate and informal festivals we attend, there is much less opportunity to interact with the performers. You don’t get a chance to hang out with people artists you’d like to know better. All that being the case, we still purchase our tickets the day they go on sale and plan our travel year around Merlefest.

First established in 1988 as a memorial to the legendary Doc Watson’s son Merle, who had been killed in a tractor accident the year before, Merlefest started as a modest event on a flatbed trailer with some bales of hay thrown around for people to sit on. Merle’s friends, friends like Sam Bush, Jerry Douglas, Tim O’Brian, T. Michael Coleman, John Cowan, and many others came together to sing and pick in memory of Merle. Now, twenty years later 80,000 admissions (average of a little over 20,000 per day) show up to hear the icons of Americana music, enjoy the scene, and depending on where they stay, to jam ‘til all hours. If 20,000 people are on campus at Wilkes Community College at any one time, there are probably 20,000 different Merlefests. Let’s see if we can bring some sense into how to get the most out of this mammoth festival.

Merlefest is held on the campus of Wilkes Community College in Wilkesboro, NC in the foothills of the Appalachian range of mountains. It is held the last weekend in April. Weather conditions in the hills are unreliable. It can be quite hot in the sunshine or cold and raw. One thing is almost certain, evenings at the main stage, the Watson stage, can be really cold. Come prepared each day for a full range of temperature and wetness. The college campus is hilly and the twelve sound stages are located all over campus. Hillside is at the top of the campus, but at the bottom of a steep hill providing excellent seating for viewers. Creekside stage is behind the main stage along a creek. It, too, accommodates large crowds and important concerts are scheduled there. The main stage, Watson, dominates the campus. It dominates the flat lower part of the main campus with its sixty rows of reserved seats and a seemingly endless grass field behind them where those without reserved seats set up what become almost camp sites.

Merlefest and Wilkes Community College are serious about alcohol and drugs on campus and security is tight. People at every gate you come through inspect carry-in backpacks, purses, camera bags, and such. They’re looking for alcohol and drugs and very little gets through. In our years of attending this festival, we’ve seen almost no drunks and have seldom smelled the aroma of weed. This leads some people to complain about too many rules and intrusive security. Some people complain the Merlefest is a “police state.” The best way to keep from feeling injured is to obey the rules. The net effect for those attending the festival is that people are well-behaved and young parents don’t have to explain other people’s behavior to their kids. Every day this campus becomes a large community of music lovers who can enjoy themselves without having their enjoyment intruded on by drunks and stoners.

Don’t let the reserved seats intimidate you. Until five in the afternoon, all seats in the reserved section of Watson stage are open to anyone who wishes to sit in them, unless the owners of the seat claim them, whereupon, users just move to another seat. Some people, with strong bladders, have been known to enter the reserved area around 4:00 in the afternoon and, by nimbly changing seats, stay until the evening ends. Of course, if they leave to eat or relieve themselves, they can’t get back in. Reserve seats for new subscribers go on sale around November 1st. We got our by going on-line the minute the box office opened, asking for best available seats, and scored in the twentieth row. We intend to keep our seats and leave them to our children in our wills.

If you’re going to Merlefest to get your fill, assuming that’s possible, of a specific band like Donna the Buffalo, Blue Highway, or Sam Bush, Jerry Douglas, John Cowan, or you name it, you’ll need to be prepared to move about the campus. Performers move from Hillside to Creekside, to Walker Center (a lovely indoor theater), to the Ameriana stage, to Watson Stage and you’ll need to move with them. The other alternative is to restrict your movement, enlarge your interests, and wait for your favorite bands to come to you. There are other stages for people with specific interests. The Traditional Stage features a variety of traditional bluegrass, old-time music, hymn singing with shaped notes, and clogging. The Austin Stage, a small stage shoehorned in between two classroom buildings under cool trees is an intimate place where you can hear lots of blues. Choose your poison and you’re likely to find it at Merlefest.

Merlefest is the major fund raising event for every community group in Wilkes County. Under one long tent a range of foods from Pad Thai to barbecued chicken is available. You can order a full meal or a hot dog. You can have a funnel cake if you haven’t had enough of them elsewhere, or you can avoid them and eat healthy. Eating well and happily is, as usual, a matter of timing. To avoid horrendous lines at the food booths, eat away from meal times. Eat lunch at ten or two, dinner at four or seven and you’ll find seats and not wait in line too long. But remember, these food booths are important to the community and you’ll know you’ve supported worthy causes rather than small time traveling entrepreneurs.

Vendors, vendors everywhere, but they’re only where you want them to be and you have to go to them to take advantage of what they have to offer. This year the vendors’ village has been moved to create more green space. I have no idea what that means, but it suggests that you’ll have to do more walking to get to the dozens of independent vendors hawking everything from tie-dies to instruments, stained glass to wooden bowls, juggling kits to jump ropes. There’s lots of choice, and while you will find the usual pre-packaged Chinese imports you see at other festivals and flea markets, careful shopping can net you some interesting and unusual purchases.

Three other shopping venues add to the opportunities. The craft tent has juried crafts people selling a variety of high quality crafts including hand made boots, brooms and brushes, several kinds of wonderful bowls, hand made instruments, and other choices. It’s worth a walk through this tent just to appreciate the art. We’ve bought several turned burl bowls through the years and treasure them at home. The music tent sells CDs and other merchandise from all artists appearing at the festival. This tent is sponsored by the Wilkes County Chamber of Commerce and they add a hefty $3.00 charge to the usual $15.00 you pay to support musicians at other festivals. Furthermore, your opportunities to get the CDs signed are limited as there are long lines and short appearances by the artists. Sometimes you get lucky. Finally, there’s a sales tent on the path between the Watson Stage and the Creekside stage which you shouldn’t miss. This tent is where the major instrument manufacturers show their wares and allow you to demo them to your heart’s content. Deering, Ome, Nechville, First Quality Music and other manufacturers have booths. Just outside, Gibson has a large trailer. It’s like being let loose in a chocolate factory.

Accommodations in Wilkesboro offer several choices. Almost all motel rooms are spoken four years in advance and at exorbitant prices. There are several campgrounds available. Closest to the campus is River’s Edge where there is tent camping and round the clock jamming. Another place well-know for jamming and having places for larger RVs is a camp ground near the city’s water purification plant and dubbed “Sewer Fest.” People who stay there love it. The Kerr Reservoir west of town is a Corp of Engineers impoundment with a number of campgrounds around it. The Merlefest web site describes the various venues and you can get more information from the bulletin board on the Merlefest site. At one time there was a large parking lot and hillside on campus that was used for camping at a cost of $150 per site. This space has been reduced and the price increased to $400 dollars without any hookups. The best way is to either show up at River’s Edge or make your reservations early. I gather the scene at River’s Edge is loose and friendly. The younger crowd which inhabits this area seems to enjoy it a lot. Us older folks prefer something more tame.

There’s lots more – a place to take a much needed nap in the shade; a massage tent; Alberti’s flea circus; the Little Pickers tent for kids; jammers tents; a display of raptors; sand sculpture; and a garden of meditation in memory of Merle Watson, which brings us back to where we started. At any venue you’re likely to see and hear Doc Watson, the legendary blind mountain folk song singer who came to prominence at folk festivals in the sixties and continues to sing and pick like a wizard at age 83. The spirit of Doc Watson pervades this wonderful festival. You’ll leave on Sunday afternoon exhausted and exhilarated and waiting for next April to come around.


Tuesday, April 10, 2007

Florida State Bluegrass Festival - Perry

Driving north toward Perry we roll up U.S. 19, a mostly four lane highway with almost no traffic on it, a marked contrast to I-75 with its speed and stress. As we come into Perry we see a park with lots of RVs parked in it, but Irene thinks it’s too nice to be the grounds for the Florida State Bluegrass Festival, so we drive on for a few minutes before deciding we’re wrong and turn around. We enter the Forest Capital State Park and Harold, sitting in his golf cart with his large cowboy hat asks us if we mind parking our rig in a small site to the rear of the facility rather than the one we’ve been assigned to, which can accommodate a forty foot rig. Happily, we’re led through a field of rigs into a lovely, quiet grove of live oaks where we park and set up. We know the cats will be comfortable and cool here during the next few days.

We stroll out to check out the scene and find Robert Wilson and his family band parked along our way. We’re happy to see them as we were really impressed by their work as a band and their manner of working with their young children. Robert stops to ask whether I’d be willing to write some material for them to use in their promotional material, and we agree to sit down later to work out what they’ll want. This festival is sponsored by the Taylor County Chamber of Commerce and has an admission charge of only $10.00 for its two day format. The cost of the performers is being largely underwritten by the

Chamber and some other sponsors, while water and electricity cost extra. A lovely band shell with huge curved, laminated wood trusses has been built and fresh sod covers the ground in front of it. There’ll be no sand in our toes this weekend and much less dust in the air. Vendors are setting up their booths in the shaded area behind the sound booth. At 3:00 we set up. We find the post office, where our mail is waiting for us and go to the pleasant, modern library, which is blessedly equipped with a powerful building-wide Wi-Fi hotspot, where we get some work done. There’s a delightful, small Mexican restaurant where we have a delightful supper.The weather has cooled off and we are promised a sunny, but chilly couple of days as we get up on Friday. This is an enjoyable change for us after the heat and dust of the past few weeks. Friday is a leisurely day. We sit down with Melissa and Robert Wilson to interview them. As we talk they emerge as much more nuanced and interesting folks than we had imagined. Robert spent some years touring with is own band, The River Grass Review, as well as building his logging business. He and Melissa met at the festival at Jekyll Island, where she was playing with a small band based in Jacksonville. For some years Robert left active touring to build his business and his family. As the kids have developed musical interests, they have formed a band and begun performing in the region while keeping their priorities well aligned – Church and family always before the entertainment business. The kids are polite, funny, and unassuming. Eleven year old Katie shows me her new violin. Robert proudly plays and sings a new song their son Clint has written with Melissa called “Second Best.” Children run in and out of the Wilson campsite, young pickers who enjoy the family and are led, in many ways, by Katie, who is the youngest of them all.

First on stage this afternoon is The Bluegrass Parlor Band. For some reason they do not seem a sharp or tight as they did last week at Withlacoochee. Nevertheless, this group of young musicians is interesting and exciting. Cory and Jarrod Walker, whose names will be heard in bluegrass music for years to come, are, as usual, very good. Austin Wilder on the guitar is a wonderful flat picker whose singing will improve as his voice gains timbre. At fifteen, his voice is still not a reliable instrument, but it will be. The Still House Band is composed of four men in the medical field whose sound is mellow and folksy and who play easy to listen to music with skill and grace. Bits of Grass is a more traditional hard driving band featuring Carl Bailey, who is a fine Dobro player.

The last of Friday’s group of local/regional bands, The Wilson Family comes on. This band, which we also saw at Live Oak a few weeks ago, has the capacity to turn on a crowd and does it again this evening. Katie Wilson, with her special rendition of “Five Pound Possum” brings the house down. Perhaps most important in watching this group is the pure love and pride parents Robert and Melissa evidence for Katie and Clint as they play. It’s perfectly clear that these two gifted young pickers will be around for quite a while and will enrich the music.

Melissa King and Phatgrass have the disadvantage of appearing in the dinner hour. King is lovely to look at and has a strong voice. This week, having seen her three weeks earlier, it seems she has added some new material to her set list and has not been asked to stretch her voice too far or to perform her limited repertoire too often. Both these decisions benefit her, and her performance is stronger and more pleasing. Supported by three young players whose musicianship complements her and by her mother on bass, King’s set works well for her.

Promoter Ernie Evans has used the first four sets to showcase lesser known bands with lots of young pickers. By doing so he has given these bands an opportunity, has saved some money to spend on his headliners, and has filled the first part of his bill. Ernie has a commitment to young and emerging groups. In Melissa King he has twice scheduled a young singer with the potential to become a star in bluegrass or country music.

This festival has a lot of people attending who love to jam. The members of those bands that don’t arrive by chartered or owned bus, perform, sell their product and leave are much more likely to be found around the camping areas jamming with each other or joining other jam groups to pick with them for a while. Under the Wilson’s awning there is almost always a group of young pickers joining in with a couple of Wilson family members to make music and have fun together. One festival we attend, Pickin’ in the Pasture in Lodi, NY (held the last full weekend in August) has members of a band and festival promoter Andy Alexander circulating through the campground on Friday night to pick the best jam band, which is chosen to perform from the main stage on Saturday morning. This provides good fun for lots of people as well as an opportunity for one band to be heard in front of an appreciative audience. Often jammers take more pleasure in pickin’ and singin’ than they do in hearing multiple bands. They show up at the main stage for small groups containing friends of theirs and for the major groups. Irene is more likely to stay in place in our seats, while I like to cruise the grounds looking for pictures or just chatting with people. She has become increasingly active in taking pictures and her work has improved to the point where I really rely on her for taking pictures and pointing out photo opportunities.

Even though it become chilly as soon as the sun sets, the evening’s two featured bands are ones that bring out almost everyone attending. The U.S. Navy Bluegrass Band called Country Current is the band that brought us to this festival. We have never seen them before, but one of the songs, “I Would Walk 500 Miles” is one of my favorites, and I’m eager to hear it performed live. The various service bands perform at official government functions as well as fulfilling a major recruiting function. As might be expected, Country Current’s presentation is filled with patriotic feeling, recognition of former military service completed by audience members, and playing of the service anthems. Because the members are on active military duty, there are virtually no recordings of their performances and they do not sell merchandise at the festival. This increases the luster of seeing them live.

Country Current is one of the finest bluegrass bands on tour. Lead singer and guitarist Wayne Taylor is a first class flat picker and has a wonderful voice. Frank Sollivan plays a marvelous mandolin – fast, accurate, and complex – while contributing good solo and harmony vocals and doubling on fiddle. He has a solo CD out and, if he leaves the Navy will certainly become a major force in bluegrass music. Keith Arneson plays the banjo with humor and exceptional skill. He has a light touch on the strings and is lightening fast. Pat White plays a very good fiddle. He and Sollivan do double mandolin and double fiddle pieces during their show, both of which are effective. Joe Wheatley, who will soon be retiring from the service, plays a complex and effective bass and provides a rock solid beat. This band is not to be missed.

Valerie Smith and Liberty Pike closed Friday night on a chill, clear evening. Val has had throat surgery recently and cannot strain her voice by singing. Fortunately, her band can carry the show for her as she provides her customary spark. Becky Buller, a wonderful fiddler and singer/songwriter, steps into the limelight in this circumstance and shines. Her glowing voice, stellar fiddling, movement on stage, and careful clowning all add up to a fine performance despite the absence of Smith. Jonathan Maness on guitar added much to the mix. He is a versatile young guitarist who describes himself as progressive, but can play in almost any setting. His pleasing stage personality and quality voice contribute effectively. Chad Graves contributed well on the Dobro, bringing fine playing and an element of humor to the mix. Val Smith, at the top of her game, is more a vocalist and personality than an instrumentalist. It takes courage for her to be on stage without being able to sing, and she looked a little lost and somewhat sad, although her generosity in giving the limelight to her band is admirable.

A sharp, chill breeze blows across the campground as Saturday morning arrives. Competition for Florida State Championships in instruments and vocal groups are being held in an indoor auditorium. Ernie Evans has spent several years trying to coordinate the efforts of the several regional bluegrass associations in Florida, and they have finally been able to cooperate on establishing a set of criteria. All contestants in this event have been winners in regional competitions. Musicians who have won in previous years compete in a masters division. Ages range from five to about sixty-five and musical experience from beginning to quite experienced. The audience for this event is small, but appreciative. With work and effort from the local associations and the good health of this festival, these championships can grow into a major event in Florida. On the main stage, the appearance of the Tallahassee Fiddlers gave a large group of kids on fiddles and mandolins an opportunity to perform.

In addition to the bands appearing yesterday and a couple of additional local bands, there are two big additions. Ryan Holladay is a fourteen year old banjo wizard. While he has yet to develop much in the way of a stage personality, this may not be necessary, as his banjo playing, as well as mandolin and guitar, is truly marvelous. He is fast and accurate, has excellent timing, and plays very fine backup, too. His father says he’s been playing the banjo since he was five and is self-motivated. Off stage he comes across as a somewhat shy, but engaging kid.

The Grascals have been so active on the festival trail and so successful as a recording group that little needs to be added here. The addition of Aaron McDaris on banjo has been a net improvement on the band’s performance. They have created the nickname of “Boo” for him and encourage the crowd to use it loudly whenever he plays. A chorus of Boos ensues whenever he has a solo. Jimmy Mattingly is on tour with Dolly Parton, and his substitute did an adequate job without bringing Mattingly’s energy and charisma to the Grascals’ lively mix – a net loss. The festival winds up with the remaining audience swaddled in every bit of warm wear people could find. A small, but appreciative audience stayed to the end.

This fifth annual Florida State Bluegrass Festival can generally be considered a success. The Forest Capital State Park is a delightful – tree shaded, clean, and well laid out park with a building that could be used for performance if rain required it. A good selection of vendors, including several local service clubs provided good variety of food and gifts. A chili cook-off on Saturday added to the culinary choice as well as providing some fun as attendees tried out a number of differing versions of this now national dish. Styles ranging from a white, chowderish chilly to pure Texan without beans or tomatoes and using chunks of beef provided quite a contrast. A variety of clinics helped musicians improve their skills. The MCs were competent, although they spoke too much of their home in Georgia without enough focus on Perry. The $10.00 fee for attending is, if anything, too reasonable as it competes with promoters who must charge much more in order to afford first rate bands. Nevertheless, Ernie Evans offered lots of support for local bluegrass and acoustic music. This festival provided an enjoyable time for attendees, whether they came to listen or jam and should continue to grow.

Monday, April 9, 2007

Manatee Springs, Chiefland, and Cedar Key

Manatee Springs State Park is located at the end of CR 320, due west of Chiefland. The road heads directly into the park, which has a pleasant, but very well used campground, particularly in comparison to some others we've stayed in. Arriving on a Sunday morning around 10:30, we had to wait until 1:00 PM to get into our site, a fairly spacious but very sandy one in the Hickory loop. Sites are not as well separated as they are at Oscar Scherer or Payne's Prairie and the bath houses are not as well cleaned. On the other hand, the park is fairly quiet, even though we are here during spring break week in Florida and there are many kids here.

The main reason for having a park here is a lovely spring welling out of the ground and filling a cypress encircled pond. Millions of gallans of water a day rush from the ground at a constant temperature of 72 degrees and provide a warm resting place for manatees during the chilly winter months. Now, in the first days of April, they have mostly returned to the Suwannee River, leaving the pool for swimmers and snorklers. The pool has crystal clear water and there are many turtles. Further down the outlet toward the river there are alligators. This is a good spot for a respite for us before heading for our last Florida bluegrass festival at Perry on Thursday. A sink hole, fancifully called The Catfish Hotel, though covered with duck weed, the bottom is 90 feet deep and it provides an entrance to an underwater cave system, the mapped part of which covers at least five miles. A raised walk leads along the outlet through a cypress swamp featuring huge knees to the Suwannee River. This walk provides a good sense of the depth and quiet of the cypress swamp. We are told that at night a light flashed on the water here reveals dozens of pairs of red alligator eyes.

Chiefland would be a run-down town if it had ever been run up. With a population just short of 2000, it has little to recommend it except for a lovely little coffee shop called Sunday’s that functions as the local Wi-Fi hot spot. Having been suffering from computer withdrawal for several days, we spend a couple of hours a day at Sunday’s to post blogs entries, catch up on e-mail, and check out web sites we like to visit regularly. The coffee and pastries here are delicious and we are never rushed as we spend time doing the computer work. The staff here is welcoming and helpful. We also find a relatively clean and smoke free Laundromat. When you live as we do, that’s an important plus. Otherwise, Chiefland has the inevitable and invaluable Wal-Mart superstore and a Walgreen’s pharmacy where the computer has made it possible to refill prescriptions without having to carry the scrips.

On Tuesday afternoon we drive down to Cedar Key, about thirty miles west. We drive across miles of Florida prairie; cattle grazing on palm and tree studded fields. There are almost no stores, gas stations, or houses along the road until we near the bridge to the island where things pick up a little. Cedar Key is pretty close to being what a tourist would call “unspoiled.” It has no high rises and only a few fairly recent condos. The back-bay features low hummocks covered with trees and vast salt marshes. The Gulf shore is more rocky than beachy and smaller islands with white strips of beach can be seen scattered a mile or two away. There are almost none of the gaudy McMansions seen further south along the west coast and no major hotels. The main street has a few artist’s shops, a book store calling itself curmudgeonly, some restaurants, and some old, quirky buildings that are examples of what is called Cracker architecture. We stop at the Chamber of Commerce for some literature, walk around a pier covered with gift shops and restaurants, and stop for lunch at Tony’s restaurant which offers a fish platter we share for too much money. Later we drive the length of the key and across a small bridge to another small key and drive along beside the airport landing strip until we reach a private development where we turn around and return. On the back streets of Cedar Key are a lot of littered yards, tin-roofed houses, and what tourists call character and local reformers call poverty. Cedar Key is worth a stay for a couple or family seeking out of the way quiet or at least a few hours for people looking for the fabled “old Florida” which may no longer exist.



Tuesday, April 3, 2007

Withlacoochee Bluegrass Jamboree - Review



Withlacoochee Bluegrass Jamboree is held on one of the most attractive sites in bluegrass. Down a dusty, bumpy drive past a skeet range off County Road 41 in rural Levy County, Florida, the Knight family has established a music park under a large grove of moss draped live oaks lying along a backwater in the Withlacoochee River. The performance shed, a large wooden shed with a rusted tin roof sits in front of an old white house with long porches on each floor facing it. The river, at this time of year, teeming with migrant wild fowl provides a steady light breeze to cool the area. The cement floor of the shed is scored off to show the seating pattern; almost all the seats have been reserved before the festival begins. We have reservations in the twenty sixth row, just in front of the sound booth. The stage, which seems miles away, is made of old barn wood and decorated with old farm implements and household items.

We are led to our campsite by a volunteer in a golf cart through a twisting maze of paths in the woods. Our site is, by Withlacoochee standards, pretty wide, and we set up, putting our awning out and finding space to park the car. We go off to explore and when we return a find a fifth wheel from New Brunswick shoehorned in beside us. The owners are complaining, pretty bitterly, that we’ve taken too much space and they can’t get their slide out and can hardly open the door. We check and find our rear corner perhaps three inches over the faint line demarcating our border, but he surely has a just beef about the size of his site for the size of his rig. We’ve been in the same situation and feel bad about it, but not bad enough to hook up our rig in order to move it six or eight inches. It’s very tight in here with hundreds of rigs accumulating. Each pair of rigs shares a water hookup and 30 amp electric plugs are clustered on a wooden post. Electricity proves to be problematic as the weekend moves along. The owners make a real effort to keep dust down by sprinkling, but it’s an impossible task. Fortunately, most attendees here are in self-contained rigs, because the grounds have one wash house and too few porta-johns spread about the grounds. Day ticket folks are on their own here.

The lineup here has a reputation for being very strong and we’ve heard from festival goers at others shows that this is a great festival. The sad death of promoter Lonnie Knight has left his widow Miss Peggy and other family members and friends to put this show together. Saturday promises to be a very good day, otherwise the lineup includes some bands we’ve never heard of and some others we don’t care about. Fortunately, there are always surprises at a festival. The crowd assembled on Friday afternoon and evening seems tired and difficult to please. They listen pretty attentively, but don’t seem to rouse themselves too much enthusiasm, perhaps because they’re the oldest crowd we’ve encountered anywhere. The age of the fans leads promoters to select tried and true traditional bluegrass bands. If the future of bluegrass music lies in its past, then the music is doomed, I fear. There must be a happy medium between the incessant uproar we encountered at Springfest last weekend and this moribund crowd, but perhaps niche programming works better.

There are two pleasant surprises on the bill for Friday. The Scott Anderson Band, a local group from around Gainesville, is musically very solid and Scott is a good spokesman as well as playing a creditable banjo. Their song selection is traditional, but varied. They aren’t available at the merchandise shed, so I don’t get a chance to talk with Scott or get him to sign my banjo head. The other surprise is a rising young band called Kickin’ Grass. This band, which seeks to span a range from traditional bluegrass to progressive styles, is really quite good. Their version of “My Grandfather’s Clock,” a song rarely sung at bluegrass festivals, worked quite well. A version of “Hot Corn, Cold Corn” began at a very slow tempo and then accelerated to a rousing finish; a different and effective way to play this old song you might think had seen its day. Led by Jamie Dawson and his wife Lynda, a talented song writer and singer, they offer a lively show, singing and playing well. Interestingly, Jamie’s dad Harry is a man we’ve met along the road. We first saw him in Lodi, at Pickin’ in the Pasture, where he was driving Lorraine Jordan’s bus. Later, we met him on the grass at the Americana Stage at Merlefest. It’s interesting how paths cross in this small world. We buy their CD and they give us stickers and a picture as well as a schedule and seem grateful to sell something. I buy a cap, too.

The Mark Phillips band is not interesting, and he has to leave the festival early because his mother is dying in Oklahoma. M.C. Jo Odom leads a prayer for her, which later appears to have worked as Phillips calls her from home to tell her he arrived on time and his mother recognized him. This brings a cheer from the audience. Larry Gillis is a fast and loud banjo player for whom I can’t raise any enthusiasm. His band is lackluster and he seems to have lost some shine since we last saw him a year ago. The tension and excitement that grew from playing with his brother is sadly missing.

Wes Thibodeaux and the Cajun Travelers are a very pleasant change of pace in this hard driving bluegrass crowd. They sing in French and Wes plays typical Cajun accordion. He tells low-key jokes about a stereotypical Cajun character he calls Boudreau and leads the band with a light hand. I gather they play lots of bluegrass events, and they were well-received by the audience. He later showed me a beautiful, new D accordion hand made in Louisiana. He talked about life on the road and the aging of some of the great icons of the past. This is a hard working band, on the bill here for all three days.

Saturday is really the day we came to this festival for, and we were not disappointed in the results. The Lewis family performs twice, their act now so familiar to us we tend to watch it for even small variations. We’re sad to see the continued deterioration in Polly’s ability to perform, but the audience is supportive as Janis and Lil’ Roy help her when she needs it. This act has been on the road for more than fifty years, mixing gospel singing with Lil’ Roy’s broad clowning and high energy musicianship. He can still play, sing, and stand on one foot at the same time. Often his best bits occur when he comes on stage with whatever act is either lucky or unlucky enough to follow him. The Lewis’s have lots of friends who cluster around their merchandise table to chat and buy CDs. They may finally have sold the last of their tapes.

Seneca Rocks is largely a recreation of the old Johnson Mountain Boys, a band which celebrated traditional bluegrass. Dudley Connell, Marshall Wilburn, Tom Adams, and Davod McLaughlin have performed together for years, and they’re supported by Sally Love on rhythm guitar and vocal harmony. Tom Adams, once a noted banjo stylist, has been afflicted with distonia and can no longer pick with his middle finger. He has taught himself a two finger style that works pretty well and probably fools 95% of the people in the seats, but Adams knows and he’s unhappy and dissatisfied. Seneca Rocks has added a more folky and modern sound to its catalog of Johnson Mountain Boys songs to produce a new sound that I found quite enjoyable, but that didn’t really light up the crowd. This response raises again the issue of the future of bluegrass music. The audience at Withlacoochee is perhaps the most elderly of any festival we have attended. It stands (or rather, sits) in marked contrast to the proto-hippie crowd at last week’s Springfest. There must be a middle ground and perhaps the youth movement represented by Josh Pinkham, Ryan Hathaway, and Cory Walker will point the way.

The older generation was well represented by the biggest surprise of Saturday night. Substituting for his son, the fabled Dr. Ralph Stanley and his Clinch Mountain Boys took the stage to a standing ovation. At age 80, Ralph Stanley has been a headliner and innovator in bluegrass music for nearly 60 years. He no longer plays three finger style banjo, but does well with clawhammer, old time banjo. He MCs his show, sings in that characteristic high lonesome sound that fits so well with songs like “O, Death” and “I Am a Man of Constant Sorrow.” He is a shameless self-promoter, seeking to sell CDs and other memorabilia at his merch table, but stays and signs for well over an hour, much longer than other lesser lights often stay. I never expected to get his signature on my A banjo head, but there it is.

The other band we came to see is the Lonesome River Band headed by Sammy Shelor, who Chris Pandolfi of the Infamous Stringduster told me has the finest right hand of any banjo player on the circuit. We saw LRB for the first time two weeks ago, but they are one of the great national touring bands and we’re eager to see them again. Shelor, tall and lithe, prowls about the stage in an almost catlike dance. He maneuvers his Huber banjo into and away from the microphone to manage the volume of his very powerful playing. On second hearing, I’m impressed by his backup play, an element of banjo playing often neglected but about ninety percent of what banjo players do. Brandon Rickman seems a little down today, but Matt Leadbetter is even stronger on the Dobro than he was two weeks ago. Matt, son of IBMA award winner Phil Leadbetter, has fit into this band, which never had a Dobro player before, just perfectly. He has helped make a band with a legendary big sound even bigger. Andy Ball on mandolin is strong and adds a good voice. LRB has had only one constant over the years, Shelor, but this version has emerged even stronger from its recent changes.

On Sunday morning we walk over to Mike and Mary Robinson’s Winnebago for their Bluegrass Gospel Jam, an event they hold every Sunday morning at bluegrass festivals. Usually they hold their jam in the main stage area, but this weekend one of the festival officials is a Baptist preacher and he will be holding a regular Palm Sunday service. I like playing in the jam, because I can be in the background and get a little more experience, while Irene likes singing the old songs and taking pictures, which she’s doing with increasing skill and enthusiasm. Mike’s leadership of the singing makes everyone feel included and his message and prayer are clear and pointed, but never delivered with a hammer.

We head back to the main stage shortly after noon to find a very fine band called Backwater substituting for a band that had to leave because of illness. They turn out to be a good deal better than the band they’re replacing. They’re one of those high quality local bands that don’t get any publicity, perform frequently in their region, and deserve more recognition.

The Bluegrass Parlor Band is an unusual and special group. Founded about 25 years ago by Tom Henderson who owns a music store in Tampa by that name, the band has been a vehicle for developing young bluegrass players. The current version, managed and led with quiet authority by 27 year old Jeff Jones, is quite remarkable. Heather Franks does a good job singing, serving as MC and playing rhythm guitar while straight-faced Jason Jones plays bass. Three remarkable young musicians, all in their teens, give this band its excitement. Austin Wilder, 15, plays a fine flat-picking guitar and sings lead on many songs. His voice is becoming stronger, but his picking is fast and accurate. Jarrod Walker, only fourteen, has emerged as a premier mandolinist since the last time we saw them a year ago. His solos are inventive and clear. The centerpiece of this band in both musicianship and charisma is Cory Walker, who at seventeen is already recognized as one of the fine young emerging banjo players. Cory’s picking has continued to improve, while his stage presence has made him a dominant figure on the stage. Cory showed his versatility by playing a Django Rhinehart swing piece on the guitar and providing an alternative sound for the band on Dobro on several songs. The youngest Walker, eleven year old Tyler, plays guitar as a guest today, but will soon join this group as a regular. Because this band so clearly points to the future of bluegrass music, I have only one wish, which is that the band took a few more risks toward incorporating progressive sounds into its essentially traditional sound.

The Withlacoochee Bluegrass Jamboree points to both the future and the past of bluegrass music. The age of predilections of much of the audience suggest little future for the genre. There were many elderly people here who came, sat, and listened, but added little vitality or enthusiasm to the proceedings. They seemed to prefer straight ahead traditional bluegrass bands, short hours at the main stage, and leisurely times sitting around their camping rigs. The Lewis Family, Ralph Stanley, and Wes Thibodeaux represent the music preferred by these folks. Youth and vitality were represented here by bands like Kickin’ Grass and the Bluegrass Parlor Band, bands which performed to good audiences but not strongly featured in the scheduling of the festival. Growing and revitalizing the audience for this wonderful music, retaining respect and enthusiasm for the past and integrating the sounds of new music of the present remains the challenge for bluegrass.